The BMW Square Meal Restaurant of the Year is one of the most coveted awards in the hospitality industry. It not only rewards all-round excellence, but is also an accurate barometer of the scene – a factor that has been brought into sharp relief by the ongoing recession. In addition to dazzling food, serious wine, service that matches aspirations and that elusive quality called ‘feel-good factor’, contenders must more than ever before take a convincing stance when it comes to value.

This week, the BMW Square Meal Award for Best UK Restaurant 2010 was presented to L’Enclume, the Cumbrian restaurant presided over by chef Simon Rogan, whose passion for local herbs, vegetables and fruit permeates his inventive modern cuisine.

After the nostalgic air of yesteryear sentimentality purveyed by many a Lake District dining room, L’Enclume comes as a breath of fresh air. The dark beams and whitewashed stone walls of the former blacksmith’s workshop provide an unfussy, neutral backdrop for cuisine that shows true passion and a commitment to excellence in every respect.

In the past year chef Rogan has become more focused on the raw materials available in this lush corner of Cumbria, acquiring an organic farm to grow the herbs, vegetables and fruits that now feature on his two tasting menus – one of eight courses (£60), the other of 13 (£80). He has also been working with a forager to explore the culinary possibilities presented by coastal and hedgerow finds. Combinations of ingredients reveal a lively intelligence, and Rogan’s beautifully controlled artistry is seldom less than note perfect – even the most seemingly outlandish creations show subtle precision.

Square Meal editor, Ben McCormack said “This is subtle cooking with a real sense of fun – strikingly paired ingredients linger in the memory long after eating – and it’s all matched by service that strikes just the right balance: friendly, professional and attentive.”

Commenting on the news, Rogan announced: "I'm really pleased, not only for myself but for the whole team. I might be the owner but I feel privileged to be part of this great team and can only hope that this is the start of a good year for us. It's a sign that people are beginning to take note of what we are doing in deepest, darkest Lake District. "

Every summer, Square Meal’s editors and 25 regional reviewers look beyond the M25 in search of the best restaurant outside London. As the UK restaurant scene has steadily grown, the task has grown ever more daunting, so this year Square Meal opened the floor to readers via an online poll, to help settle the winner. There was plenty of support for the old guard, such as Le Manoir aux Quat’ Saisons and Waterside Inn. Last year’s winner, Whatley Manor, and Bray’s ever-popular Fat Duck were also strong contenders, while Nathan Outlaw made the running with his impressive seafood restaurant. But one restaurant outshone them all: L’Enclume. With its bucolic Lake District setting, pared back interiors and inventive modern cuisine, it has become one of the most popular foodie destinations in the country.

All in all, L’Enclume offers destination dining at its very best from a brilliant chef still on his way up. As such, it’s a worthy winner of the BMW Square Meal Award for Best UK Restaurant, and more than merits the journey to its out-of-the-way location.